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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.